There is something brilliant about teba gyoza. It's crazy. It's mad. Like it was the last dish conceived by the mind of a genius chef before denouncing his return to the kitchen because no one would take him seriously.
In its dead simplicity, multiple flavours emerge layer by layer. Texture moving frequently between crisp and crunchy to soft and moist. It's the marriage of two great izakaya main stays - gyoza and chicken wings.
I first encountered teba gyoza at Izakaya Ju last summer. Immediately, it became my favourite dish at the restaurant, and remains the undisputed champion of wings in the city - for me at least. Sure, it's only three pieces. But I'll take three pieces of genius over a pound of frozen uncreativity anyday.
Partly a result of excessive amounts of Food Network television, and partly a need to challenge and push myself, I've been encouraging the idea of making multistep slightly difficult dishes. There is also an enormous amount of satisfaction re-creating your own favourite dishes. So, I took it upon myself to make teba gyoza!
Ingredients:
- 6 chicken wings (thighs removed, but tips remain)
- 1 cup potato starch
- 1/2 cup ground pork
- 1/4 cup chopped cabbage (blanched and cooled)
- 2 tbsp chopped green onion
- 1 tbsp ginger
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 1 tbsp mirin
- 1 tbsp sake
- 1 tsp soy sauce
- 1/2 tbsp soy sauce
- 1 tbsp mirin
Recipe:
1. In a mixing bowl, combine all ingredients except the chicken wings and potato starch to make the gyoza filling. Let marinate for at least 30 mins.
2. This is where the fun begins, removing the bones from the chicken wings.. without mutilating the skin to unrepairable damage. I don't have pictures, because my hands were covered in chicken grease.
So.. good luck imagining these words :). Take a small pairing knife, create a small insertion at the end of the wing. Slowly and carefully, jab viciously at the chicken wing!! no, don't do that. I apologize. Slowly use the pairing knife to separate the tendon and meat from the two bones in the wing. Try to work around the bones, so that you can carefully undress the bones. While unwrapping the bones, use the pairing knife to cut the bones loose of the grips of meat, cartiledge and tendon. Once the bones are exposed, twist the bones in rotating fashion. It won't feel nice at all. But this is where you need to unleash that inner caveman. Just resist the urge to tear everything apart and devour the chicken wing as is. Please.
3. Clean up. Take a shower. You'll be a mess.
4. Stuff the wings! Take a small portion of the gyoza filling and fill each chicken wing. Careful not to over fill. Close with a toothpick. I didn't use a toothpick and still came out okay.
5. Coat the stuffed wings with potato starch.
6. Double deep fry. In a large pot, heat vegetable oil on medium heat. To tell if the oil is hot enough, insert a bamboo chopstick. When small bubbles release at a rapid rate, the oil is ready. Put 2 or 3 wings in at a time. Remove after 5 - 6 minutes, or until golden in colour (or until you feel the wings are cooked). Place onto paper towels or cooling rack.
7. Re-fry the wings to make the skin nice and crispy. I put them back in for another 4-5 mins. Remove and place on paper towel.
8. To make the sauce (my version), bring a medium saucepan to medium heat. Add 1/2 tbsp of soy sauce and 1 tbsp of mirin. Let it caramelize and thicken a bit, then add a few wings and coat.
9. Plate, then enjoy delicious filled crispiness!